Pick up a newspaper these days and you’ll be informed that
yet another high profile restaurant has gone bust. However for every high
profile casualty, there are numerous smaller players that go to the wall
without so much as a mention.
But a shiver of dread has reverberated throughout the
hospitality industry as it comes to terms with news of the North Group demise.
If a high profile operator such as this can fail. What does it say for the rest
of the industry? Are we just seeing the tip of the iceberg as far as restaurant
closures is concerned? Or is this particular closure simply the result of poor
management?
Ask a young chef what they would like to achieve in their
future and ‘opening their own place’ is usually the response. For many chefs,
investing years working and gaining experience in numerous kitchens of note is
the most conventional method toward fulfilling that dream. Yet this experience,
though highly valued, does not automatically guarantee the business acumen to
run a successful restaurant or café.
For numerous chefs the accountant or business strategist is
an anathema, a harbinger of doom at the worst and a culler of creativity at the
least. It seems that the advice of these fiscally learned people is oft
interpreted as trying to meddle with the chefs’ vision to the point where the
menu is in fact shaped by their informed overview. This is a very challenging
situation that many chefs find themselves deliberating.
Do I go with the safe option? Everyone likes a chicken
Caesar so it makes sense to put that on the menu. The accountant smiles
contentedly.
Or
I haven’t worked for x amount of years and pushed myself
hard in order to put a bloody chicken Caesar on my menu. The accountant looks anxious.
My point is: Is the safe choice always the best one?
If you are an innovator the answer has to be a resounding
no. What would Melbourne’s culinary landscape resemble today without visionaries
like Donlevy, Stephanie & Mietta to pave the way?
This is a prime motivator for many aspiring restaurant and café
owners. Set the trend, be a game changer, leave an indelible mark.
The problem is for every genius that strikes out on the path
of individualism and makes it a success there are countless others who do not
have the skills, contacts, drive and it must be said, luck and good timing to
reach the lofty heights of achievement. Throw in an economic downturn, rising
produce and labour costs and the balancing act becomes even more acute.
This is where business advice is essential.
It would be a dull world indeed if all the menu choices
offered were from one homogenized list, approved by accounting central but
surely a reality check now and again might just keep the grim reaper from the
door?
It’s a sad day when a hospitality venture shuts and
someone’s hopes come crashing down but spare a thought for the many suppliers
and staff that lose as well. Many suppliers carrying large debts often don’t
recover themselves from a restaurant or group failure and this is a news story
that you don’t often read about.
When it comes to hospitality ventures we don’t seem to apply
the same scathing judgement that we usually reserve for banks and big companies
who go bust due to mismanagement.
It might be convenient to dismiss such failed ventures as ‘victims
of the times’ or ‘they were ahead of the curve’ but this is trivialising the
impact that such closures have on many other people.
Each business has a duty to make money and hospitality
businesses are no different. This duty extends not only to the operators, but
equally to the staff and the suppliers. The problem is we seem to blur the line
of this conventional expectation when it comes to food businesses and this way
of thinking really needs to change or we’ll have even more restaurants going
under.
6 comments:
Good post. Great post actually. Safe and simple is always the best direction to have with food, and when it's done well, is a truly world-class dining experience. L'Arpege and Louis XV come to mind straight away. The greatest dessert I have ever had is the apple tart from L'Arpege, and it really doesn't get much simpler than that. Google the pictures. It's pastry, apples and a butterscotch sauce - nothing more.
Coming from experience in both types of restaurants, it's a fine line between satisfying a chef's own vanity or going with a "vanilla" type of experience that appeases the masses. My experience is a niche bunch of "foodies" don't pay the bills and will desert your restaurant at the mention of a new culinary apostle. Successful restaurateurs manage to effortlessly dabble between the two.
Give em what they want and you'll never go broke
XXXXXXX group trading insolvent since September 2009. Had not paid super in any meaningful way since 2005. 186 unsecured creditors. The 2 directors still managed to give them selves $170,000pa pay rise in may and take out $223,000 in directors loans. They ran staff costs of 60% They are not victims of a changed dining scene. They are victims of their own ego and a lack of ethics
Hi Anon-thanks for reading. I think it takes great understanding to show restraint with food however I can really appreciate the intricate work that goes into some dishes
Hi Anon-I think there might be some middle ground between the examples you've given. Not sure if someone who is creative is merely satisfying their own vanity? Conversely I don't any restaurateurs that 'effortlessly' do anything these days, all the ones I know work very hard at everything!
Hi Anon-not all the time in my experience
Hi Anon-I deleted the name of the group for obvious reasons but your points are sobering
spot on and it's one as owner operator you have to look at .. daily. There is a thought amongst many that don't "worry we'll just sell it one day and make a profit.".. but no one wants to buy an unprofitable business. The location often plays a part too and there can be numerous types of food businesses that have their place. It's difficult when you want to pay people fairly too which you should. I and many of my workmates were often paid a salary which was often for eighty hours a week so weren't surprised when our bosses bought another business (they had the money).. but many of us are not prepared to pay people like that anymore. There is a very popular Asian restaurant that is often on the best dining lists of Hobart. But after discovering from the Asian student network that the owner in question pays them $7.00 an hour and covers herself by saying her staff only work a few hours a week when their pay of 42.00 is questioned I've had to cross that place off my favourite list. I think we have a duty as a society to let people not be abused and taken advantage of .. even if it means we pay a fair price for a good meal which is essentially what we would be doing.
Post a Comment