Friday, December 30, 2011

A message from the Porch

To my beautiful kids,
My Mum enjoying a Champers in Heaven
My dear ol’ Da,
Pockets of family, dotted around the country
Old friends across the seas and across the road,
New friends, in-between friends and those malnourished by friendships lost
Those bereaved and burying and those expecting and delivering
Bertie and Nellie who have learned to begrudgingly accept one another.
The stoic bloke who slashes our paddocks
All the many people who have ever made me laugh out loud
Those inspiring makers, growers, farmers and real food people
Writers whom leave me bedazzled
The patient, the forgiving and the accepting
Even the grudge-holders
The people I’ve upset over the years: I’m sorry-I know I can be difficult
the haters, the judgementalists and the intolerant
Small-minded people, the people who are cruel to animals
the people who are just plain cruel.
To optimists, dreamers, schemers and rascals.
Of course to everyone else I've neglected to mention.

But most of all, to my beautiful, loyal and supportive wife, Cate

Happy New Year

Love Steve
x

Thursday, December 22, 2011

A Christmas remembrance of times past

It was a London Christmas for me in 1987. I spied from the Hotels larder kitchen windows, piles of grey wet melting sludge on the footpath of Vine Street below, which you’ll know, is famous for its Police Station in Monopoly. It was a shocking realisation that snow does not always arrive and settle in fluffy white puffs like it did in all the movies and postcards I had seen as a kid. Prior to my trip abroad and imagining a bucolic England gripped by a good-natured frostiness, I’d naively pictured crisp white icing that coated everything and scores of ruddy faced, mitten clad and jolly people darting everywhere with large ribboned boxes destined for the tree. For someone who had never seen snow in real life, these melting grey stains accompanied by the grim faces of puffa-jacketed chavs darting through the bleak chill was a major letdown for me in my first Northern hemisphere winter. I felt very lonely and homesick for the warm glow of the Wilson’s Prom Summer I’d left behind.
As I had no family in which to enjoy Christmas and that I lived in a hostel which reeked so much of melancholy that even limiting my time there just to sleep was almost too much to bear I put my hand up to work at the Hotel. This meant the staff ‘with family’ could have Christmas off whilst us ‘orphans’ had to work. This didn’t bother me at all for the reasons I stated above however it did mean that I got New Years Eve and day off, which to a young unattached working tourist in a foreign land with a leave pass, was almost like winning the lottery.
On duty that night from the top down went like this: Senior deputy General manager, Assistant housekeeper, Front desk personnel(a few) Executive Sous chef, Assistant F & B manager, Deputy Floor manager, Chef de Rang(one step below Head waiter) Sous Chef pastry, Head kitchen Porter, Chef de Partie, 1st commis chef, 2nd commis chef(me) and two kitchen Porters.
In the bowels of the kitchen with just a few festive sounds from the street outside slipping in as the heavy back door opened and closed to exhale jubilant staff on their way to festivities, the above staff were invisible, except inevitably for the kitchen team whom unlike senior management, have nowhere to hide.
After a while the Exec sous chef disappeared, presumably to shag one of the Front desk girls in one of the numerous dark banqueting rooms. The Nigerian Head kitchen porter, Pastry Sous Chef and the Chef de Partie were in the wash-up area deep into a game of poker.
This left me and Snorky, the 1st commis chef, so named because of his likeness to the long nosed and floppy-eared character on the Banana Splits to our own devices whilst the two kitchen porters wafted around like spirits cleaning this and that, communicating in their mother tongue and occasionally shooting an envious glance over to our white uniformed and ethnically sanctioned idleness.
As the night progressed my colleague Snorky became increasingly drunk on the alcoholic flavourings nicked from the pastry chef’s cupboard and I marvelled at how quickly hazelnut, walnut and almond essence could get one inebriated.
Unluckily for me some hotel guests ordered food from the Room Service menu.
Snorky, quickly but unsteadily dispatched himself to the butchery to cut some Porterhouse for the steak sandwiches which had been requested. Gathering and combining all the other ingredients I waited for him to appear with the two portions of steak. As I turned the corner into the butchery to find out what the delay was, it became apparent that Snorky was otherwise engaged to a higher calling.
On the industrial sized wooden butchers block lay a beautifully trimmed whole aged sirloin. Along its length were vicious and random slash marks inflicted by a heavy but dull edged instrument and my eyes settled on the weapon in question, a huge cast iron cleaver buried in the crimson meat to the rivet on the handle.
Snorky however, was standing on the workbench forcing burger mince into the wire mesh grill of the speaker in the in house Tannoy communication system.
‘Oui Chef’ he kept saying sarcastically to the speaker all the while the mince muffled the incoming words and orders.
Sensing trouble I did my best to volley back all the incoming Room service orders on my own as Snorky did his best to decorate the Butchery walls with Poussin, Woodcock and Grouse.
As these things happen and right at the parabola of service the assistant F & B manager decide to make his rounds. I knew this by the flurry of activity over at the pot wash area around the corner as the impromptu card table was melded back into the conformity of the kitchen. I had to act quickly, if the manager was Snorky in this state, he’d be fired on the spot.
Somehow and in the nick of time I managed to convince Snorky that the main Banquet kitchen was in need of mince in the Tannoy system and he eagerly shuffled off, both hands cupping clods of red beef mince just as the Cuban heels of the manager clicked into the Larder kitchen. His wispy moustache and thin angular features unkindly reminded me of a rat peering through a toilet brush as his eyes darted around my work area, keen to settle on some perceived slovenliness. Finding none he minced off down the hall toward the service elevators and the main kitchen below.
Picking my moment, I jumped into the other lift, jabbed my finger on the button to the banquet kitchen and the old lift groaned into action after I slid the metal cage door shut with a clatter. It shuddered and moved upward past exposed and ancient pipes and conduits slick with years of grime captured by staccato shafts of flickering light.
Before I arrived at my intended floor I could hear the evidence growing louder of what I assumed to be Snorky’s snoring.
The gate crashed open to reveal him lying on his back, mouth opened in a trembling yawn, hands smeared with mince beef and the most unpleasant snore emitting from his gob.
Let’s just say it took an age to steal him down through the kitchens, past the sous chef and duty manager unhindered and into the awaiting clutches of the idling cab at the back door. The Pound notes pressed into the cabbies hands did nothing to soften the arched eyebrows which seemed to convey ‘I’ve seen it all before matey’
I finally relaxed and watched the red tail lights of the cab merge in the distance with all the other Christmas decorations along Vine St and took a swig of my bottle of Porter, ‘Merry Christmas Snorky’ I said to myself and went back inside.

A Christmas recipe-Turkey Pie

Still life with ingredients


List of ingredients AKA-why I'm not a signwriter


Le methode but minus the finished pie, sorry, the mix is still marinating!




Saturday, December 17, 2011

Chef Ad in todays Mercury

$50,000 PA is the salary for a head chef in todays Mercury employment section. Seriously, a Head Chef! WTF!

Friday, December 09, 2011

13 Questions for Huon sur la Mer's own celebrity chef

Chad St Hubbins, sorry ladies, he's accounted for.



Every week the Huon sur la Mer Chronicle asks prominent townsfolk a few questions. This week its Chad St Hubbins, Chief Cookie and Bottle washer at the Huon sur la Mer RSL and great Grandson of one of the founding fathers of this thriving village, Huxtable St Hubbins.

Favourite ingredient
Easy, bread crumbs, or Cotton-seed oil, it’s a toss-up

Most embarrassing pantry item
I once had a supplier drop me off a fresh free-range chicken for my own use. I was incredulous. Finally I had to say something.
“What will I do with this that the Coles or Woollies Chicken –bar could not do better!” I get so fatigued by ‘opening-the-eyes’ to these suppliers. It’s a thankless task much of the time and the words of my mentor Reuben Stanislavski ring in my ears to this day: “Chad! This fresh food thing will blow over. Let’s sit tight and wait till the packet and convenience foods take over.” God bless him.

Who would you invite to dinner?
A toughie. Boonie MUST is there as he’s teetotal now so there’ll be more piss to sink. Next it would be Lara Bingle, she’s a lot smarter than most people think, just check out Celebrity Apprentice if you don’t believe me. If I could resurrect the dead, Big Kev would have to get a Guernsey, what he did for Aussie cleaning products is inspirational, what a Patriot! Well if I have mastered the art of raising the dead I couldn't’t leave Brocky out could I? I would be a total hypocrite to the $1500 Brock sticker across the rear window of my VH SS Brock Commodore.
This might be controversial but Kyle Sandilands because he’s not afraid to say what he thinks or ask the big questions like: Who would win in a bitch-fight? Nicky Webster Vs Deni Hines
Finally my last guest would be my year eight Home Ec teacher Beryl Von Stoole to whom I would say: ‘How do you like THAT lasagne!

Your greatest culinary influence
Tearfully I recall meals that my grandma used to make us as kids. She would hunt, gather, glean, distill, ferment, preserve, hang, age and smoke. These are crafts that are not known by the generation of today. Little wonder! Everything took so freakin’ long to cook we were always starving so that bloke who invented Maggie Two Minute noodles was a life saver and a legend!

The next big thing
Without a doubt-Pizza in a can-Franchises are available

What are you reading right now?
The latest Loyalty Rewards Program catalogue from the Dry-goods multinational- Can you believe for ordering seven tonnes of Patagonian Tooth fish in batter over the year, I can get two years worth of personalised Tooth-picks AND their Caddies!?

Your favourite film
I love documentaries and it has to be the documentary made about a documentary team following The Swansea Hotels kitchen hand, Brad Caruthers, ‘The making of, THE MAKING OF A KITCHENHAND, currently screening on the West Coast community network 2AM TO 3AM every third Sunday morning in the month.


Your favourite TV Show
It’s a toss up between Worlds Funniest Famines or Sundays with Laurie Oakes.

Biggest celebrity you’ve cooked for
That’s easy. Shane Warne’s official Toupee Mechanic’s personal assistant from Advanced Hair Studios-it was thrilling! I still recall his gererous tip of a couple of vouchers to 'Celebrity Midget-Lookalikes on Ice" at the Derwent Entertainment Centre and his parting words: "Three Crownies to-go, tops-off like the Gridlock-Girls at the Surfers GP!"

Foodie cause you get behind.
These days when our food security is becoming a hot topic, I’m not scared to ask the difficult questions like: “Does pre-prepared batter HAVE to have that yellow colouring, it looks TOO fake?” Or “What’ the difference if I cook the lamb Shanks or we buy ‘em in already cooked?” and finally: “The fish is FRESHLY-FROZEN mate not Frozen, there’s a difference!

Most embarrassing kitchen disaster
I pride myself on my professionalism so when the day arrived that we mixed up the pre-prepared Steak Jus, with the Chicken gravy and the Fruity Game sauce I was very upset as we make about 30 other sauces from these three derivatives. Happily for us the punters seemed not to notice even though we have 279 different meals on the menu. Disaster averted, thank you Maggie.

Your greatest achievement
I know it’s a cliché but I believe children are the future. My seven legitimate kids and their cousins all understand good food. In fact they all know only to order the wings on a certain day at the local Chicken-Shop as that’s the last day that they are OK. Having inside knowledge here really helps.

What would you like to be remembered for?
The fact that I always offered crumbed or battered options on my home menu for the family on a menu even though it’s a path less trod.


Footnote-Sadly Chad has left the Huon sur la Mer RSL and is now in Geraldton WA working as a 'Crumbing-Technician' for All-Kitchens=Low-Com, a subsidiary of Mining Technologies Inc.