I wrote this a while back but a conversation between friends yesterday reminded me that it is still a vexed issue
Should kids be allowed in restaurants? If you were Paul Lynch, former iconic Melbourne restaurateur, you would snarl ‘no’ through your Cuban cigar. If you were the Judge presiding over the infamous case a few years ago, you’d arch your eyebrow & say ‘yes’ & smack that hammer down with a flourish. Either way it’s a hot topic.
Having children of my own I can especially relate to the rare times that my partner & I escaped to enjoy the luxury of a meal, sans enfant. It’s correct to describe it as an escape though & I feel that perhaps some of us resent the appearance of children in the dining room because it is we ourselves who get to BE child-like at the restaurant. Think about it. You arrive, you are pampered, you choose what you want, you order people around, they obey without complaint, they love you (at least love your wallet) you eat & you drink. It’s a fantasy & it ends when the bill is presented & you have to go home to reality. Perhaps when kids are around it somehow robs us of our chance to be the centre of attention?
I will confess that I actually don’t mind kids in the dining room both as a punter & as a professional BUT other people might & this may affect their experience in a negative way. This gives cause for concern, they may not come back. Sure children are a part of society but if you have your own & want a quiet night without them, are you unreasonable because you don’t want to suffer the children of others?
A point to clarify, not all kids are a drag in the dining room. However the ones that are, can have an effect like a nail down a blackboard. What to do?
There’s a real sense of irony when the harshest critics of the appearance of small people in the inner sanctum of a dining room do a back-flip as soon as they have children themselves. The glare that was once aimed at the guilty parent daring to bring little Charlotte into the hallowed gastro temple is now reserved for the neighboring customer who dares to complain if toddler Jackson rubs butter on their cashmere. From how dare you to How could you in nine months. They are as insufferable as ex-smokers.
OK, that’s more serious restaurants covered, what about more casual eateries? To me it’s true to say that these places are fair game to encounter children. Why though do many present the most unappealing grot masquerading as the dreaded ‘Children’s menu?’ Observe the unholy trinity of nuggets, fish & chips & spag bol. Sort of says it all really doesn’t it? Do these restaurateurs & chefs have kids? More poignantly do they feed their offspring the same shite every time they go out? Why is it that time after time the kids menu is the most unhealthy & unimaginative?
One theory is that its there just to appease & shut them up with a deep-fried dummy. Also I think that some parents secretly spoil their kids with the fried choices that THEY actually crave. You don’t believe me? Well check out how many chips Mum & Dad scoff whilst little Josh looks the other way! He soon learns that fried food is a valuable commodity indeed. So valuable in fact, that his Mummy & Daddy will steal food from their own flesh & blood! He then realizes he has to eat them quickly & as a result, ends his meal before his parents get theirs. Naturally, he gets bored & fidgety & starts to complain. This causes them to get anxious & other diners start eyeballing them until the awkwardness sets in. Soon Josh is screaming around the tables with the sauce bottle on his head, the parents pay the bill & leave to the relieved sighs of the other eaters. The self fulfilling prophecy at work, remember that when you pinch a chip next time!
Tony Perrottet: Liberty, Equality, Gastronomy - Paris Via A 19th-Century
Guide
-
Au Rocher de Cancale, at its present location on Rue Montorgueil since 1846
12 hours ago
